POWER DRESSING

When chic, sharp and snappy makes all the difference

WORDS BY CHARLOTTE BECKWITH

1. MODERNISM’S A LA MODE

Stockholm-based ACNE was established as a creative collective in 1996, working in advertising, film production and graphic design, as well as producing stylish clothes. This means the label’s collections often reflect more than fashion influences. And this season creative director Jonny Johansson has explored the innovative Bauhaus School of Design, which unified art, craft, technology and function in the 1920s and 1930s. The result is a collection that reflects Modernism’s confident shapes, bold colours and clean lines.

DRESS €203, WWW.ACNESTUDIOS.COM

2. KEEPING IT SURREAL

Thomas Pink was set up in 1984 by three Irish brothers intent on reinventing the traditional Jermyn Street shirt for a wider audience. The venture’s success caught the attention of LVMH, which bought the brand and expanded the range to include shirt accessories such as cufflinks, cummerbunds, braces and silk ties. This summer inspiration comes from the crisp lines and sharp styling of the Surrealists, specifically the iconic black and white photographs of the artist Man Ray and his muse Lee Miller, reflected in the collection’s monochrome colour palette.

CUFFLINKS €110, WWW.THOMASPINK.COM

3. SOLE MAN

Italian shoemakers Fratelli Rossetti pride themselves on diverse footwear that has style and tradition – and a touch of unpredictability. Eighteen years ago the label revolutionised footwear by introducing the orthopaedic Flexa, an anatomical rubber insole that cushions and stabilises the foot, helping to align the spine and reduce pressure on the back. Building on this technology, the label’s 2009 range includes a fin de siècle slipper made from porous antelope skin, which naturally moulds to the foot, and city-style leather brogues in polished calfskin, with lasered designs and innovative perforations.

SHOES €316, WWW.ROSSETTI.IT

4. BUILDING BRIC’S

Mario Briccola founded his leather goods label in Tuscany’s Comasco in 1952, and in the past 50 years Bric’s has become an institution for high-quality, high-style luggage. To begin with, Briccola worked from his small workshop, but as his reputation grew and people came to buy his handcrafted designs, he expanded, eventually becoming international. Today, the next generation of Briccola’s family looks after the 23 stores in Italy, Germany, Austria, France and Japan. Despite its growth, the brand continues to be inspired by classic Italian styling. This season’s Life Safari range uses Tuscan leather and durable Mustang fabric, combining fashion and function.

BAG €453, WWW.BRICS.IT

5. TRENDY TRAVELLER

Over 100 years ago, Simeon Simpson opened a bespoke tailor’s shop in the City of London to cater for the menswear and accessory requirements of high-flying businessmen. The Daks brand is now a household name because its commitment to creating stylish garments for those who appreciate high quality still holds true. This summer, Daks is inspired by the travelling connoisseur. Suits have sleek, fitted silhouettes, and lightweight fabrics ensure comfort, while classic details, such as the pocket square and fine hairline stripes, epitomise the gentleman abroad.

SUIT €565; SHIRT €107; TIE €56, WWW.DAKS.COM

6. WATCH THIS SPACE

Founded in Tuscany in 1986, Locman strives to create timepieces that break boundaries when it comes to design and technology. The brand struck the right note when it became the first to put watches in cases made from carbon fibre and titanium, and this has been most recently demonstrated in Locman’s futuristic Latin Lover. Four rotating lugs, a domed case and curved dial line all follow the same trajectory, allowing the mechanical self-winding watch to sit neatly on the wrist.

WATCH FROM €1,346, WWW.LOCMAN.IT

THIERRY MUGLER

THE THIERRY MUGLER LABEL IS THE STORY of two designers. The first, Thierry Mugler himself, is famous for his quintessential 1980s pieces, while the second, Rosemary Rodriguez, has reopened the brand and reinterpreted it for the 21st century.

Born in Strasbourg, Thierry Mugler founded his label in Paris in 1973. His creations, with their big shoulders, blocks of colour, exaggerated collars and cinched-in waists, were what the 80s were looking for and his clothes were embraced by Paris’ business elite. There was no doubting Mugler’s mainstream appeal, but he was also influenced by niche trends such as film noir and robots. Unfortunately, the end of the economic boom coincided with the collapse of this fashion house, and with Mugler turning his attention to Angel, his successful perfume line with Clarins.

In 2008 Rosemary Rodriguez decided to resurrect the brand. The young Castilian designer had worked with Mugler during the early 1990s, learning the importance of precise cutting, an element that has remained in the reinvigorated label. Keeping the essence of the original brand has been paramount to Rodriguez, and she studied 30 years of Mugler’s iconography before reviving it, using what she’d gained from collaborating with Gianfranco Ferre at Christian Dior and being artistic director at Paco Rabanne. The result was clean, almost-architectural lines, constructed shapes and clothes that are meant for today’s men.

Rodriguez’s designs highlight the body’s beauty, with jackets emphasising shoulders, elbow patches suggesting a muscle line and jodhpur-style pants, confirming her view that these clothes are meant “for athletic types, with their feet firmly on the ground”. With Rosemary Rodriguez at the helm, we can expect something interesting from Thierry Mugler in the future.