CURRENT POPULATION: 76,000
% POP GROWTH: 0.01 %
CITY AREA: 51.46 KM2

CITY DENSITY: 1,485 INH/KM2
GDP PER CAPITA: €48,500
DIALLING CODE: +352

WITH FRIENDS
THE LAST SUPPER
33 AVENUE JOHN F KENNEDY
TEL. 27 04 54
Only open for a couple of months, and already establishing a reputation, the Last Supper is a delight to the eyes, the ears and the taste buds. Come for a drink after work, check out the excellent menu, then sample the culinary delights.

ENTERTAINING A CLIENT
LE BOUQUET GARNI
32 RUE DE L’EAU
TEL. 26 20 06 20
Tucked away in the gastronomic quarter in the old town, chef Thierry Duhr’s inventive French cuisine is so tempting, it may distract you from your business discussions. The lunch menu is superb, but dinner might be a better bet so that you have more time to enjoy the food and the ambience. You must book at least 24 hours in advance.

CLOSING THE DEAL
RESTAURANT SPELTZ
8 RUE CHIMAY
TEL. 47 49 50
Twenty years of quality and reliability is served at this popular spot. Just off the Place d’Armes, Restaurant Speltz won’t let you down. Owner Carlo Speltz is Luxembourgish and it’s reflected in the menus. Tartare of Luxembourgish Angus beef, served with a Riesling from Schengen, in the heart of Luxembourg’s wine country, is a must.

STYLE
CHICIMICI
86 RUE DE LA CIMETIÈRE
TEL. 24 87 34 34
Chicimici is a German word used to describe ‘if-you’ve-got-it-flaunt-it’ style. So if you go here, be dressed to kill. This bar is well worth visiting if you’re young, free and single. There’s an interesting food menu if you fancy a nibble.

RELAX
THE BLACKSTUFF
15 VAL DE HAMM
TEL. 42 54 96
Established more than 10 years ago, The Blackstuff is Luxembourg’s first true Irish bar, so expect excellent Guinness, as well as friendly clients and staff. It’s great for sports, and has an outdoor area with retractable canopy. It can be lively on a Saturday night, with occasional live acts.

MUSIC
LIQUID BAR
15 RUE MUNSTER
TEL. 22 44 55
An excellent place to sneak off for a quiet after-work drink in calm surroundings, Liquid bursts into life on Tuesday and Thursday evenings. On Tuesday it’s jazz; on Thursday it’s blues. It began as a one-off jazz/blues night, but proved so popular, it was split in two. The music starts about 9pm, but arrive early to guarantee a seat.

VALUE
NOVOTEL KIRCHBERG
4 RUE FORT NIEDERGRUNEWALD
TEL. 42 98 48 1
In the heart of the European Quarter, the Novotel punches above its weight. The prices are reasonable, but the facilities are excellent and the service spot on. It’s equidistant from the centre of the city and the airport, and blissfully quiet in the evenings.

BUSINESS
NH HOTELES
ROUTE DE TRÈVES
TEL. 34 05 71
This is the nicest hotel near the airport. The piano bar has an excellent reputation for after dinner drinks, and the restaurant does a reasonable lunch. It has all the usual business facilities. Double glazing will give you a good night’s sleep, but you’ll need to take a taxi from the airport due to the tortuous footpath route.

BESPOKE
LES JARDINS DU PRESIDENT
2 PLACE STE CUNÉGONDE
TEL. 26 09 07-1
There is a distinct lack of places like this, not only in the Grand Duchy, but in Europe as a whole. Small, charming, and with accommodation, food and service of the highest quality, this hotel will make you feel as if you’re on holiday, even if you’re only in town to do business. Taking the greatest attention to detail, the designers have created seven bedrooms with a distinct style and all the modern amenities. Check out the lunch menu as well.

You must visit the Christmas Market if you’re in the city between 30 November and 24 December (www.winterlights.lu). And what it lacks in age and size, it more than makes up for in charm and enthusiasm. Imbibe vin chaud (mulled wine), or gorge yourself on Lëtzebuerger Grillwurst (sausage). Or simply enjoy a social evening with friends – the choice is yours.

Winter Lights, run by the Luxembourg City tourist office, is about a lot more than just the beautiful lights that adorn the city during the Christmas period (www.winterlights.lu). There is a whole programme of events, which is summarised in a handy leaflet from the tourist office on Place Guillaume II, including concerts, street animations, markets (see above) and even a wine festival. All are worth checking out.

Luxembourg’s airport, with its fantastic new terminal, was originally built during the Second World War by the occupying German forces. When the locals were asked where it would be best to build it, they said: “Put it on top of the hill, up near Findel!” What they neglected to mention was that it is one of the foggiest places in the whole of the country. You can check how flights are doing by visiting www.lux-airport.lu.

WORDS BY DAVID JAMES