CURRENT POPULATION: 1,018,000
% POP GROWTH: 0.12 %
CITY AREA: 161.4 KM2

CITY DENSITY: 6,307 INH/KM2
GDP PER CAPITA: €24,800
DIALLING CODE: +32

WITH FRIENDS
T’ KELDERKE
GRAND’PLACE/GROTE MARKT 15
TEL. 02 513 7344
Located on the Grand Place, T’ Kelderke does deliver the nostalgie du vrai Bruxelles as it promises, with a wide range of genuine Belgian fare. The prices are reasonable, and the restaurant has to be one of the best places in town to enjoy such classics as beer-stewed rabbit or eels cooked in “green”. It’s open every day from midday until 2 am.

ENTERTAINING A CLIENT
SWITCH
RUE DE FLANDRE/VLAAMSESTEENWEG 6
TEL. 02 503 1480
This self-styled bistro gastronomique has the right blend of style and substance. A distinctive décor leads to an open kitchen at the back of the room. Founded by ex-food writer Marc Boutsen, the fresh local produce (especially seafood), excellent service and slick surroundings are set to make their mark on the Brussels culinary map.

CLOSING THE DEAL
COMME CHEZ SOI
PLACE ROUPPE/ROUPPEPLEIN 23
TEL. 02 512 29 21
Run by generations of the same family since 1926, this eatery has gone from strength to strength, and was the first Brussels restaurant to earn three Michelin stars in 1956. It lost one in 2007 – Michelin policy when there’s a change of chef – but should win it back. It is closed on Sunday, Monday and Wednesday lunchtime.

STYLE
LES SALONS DE L’ATALAÏDE
CHAUSSÉE DE CHARLEROI/CHARLEROISE STEENWEG 89
TEL. 02 534 64 56
The restaurant downstairs is a good place to eat, but upstairs is where it really gets going from around 11pm most evenings. It’s a favourite for well-heeled locals on their way home from dinner or looking for an after-party. Half-bar, half-dancefloor, it’s an excellent place to party until the wee hours. It’s also smoker-friendly.

RELAX
CERCLE DES VOYAGEURS
RUE DES GRANDS CARMES/LIEVEVROUWBROERSSTRAAT 18
TEL. 02 514 39 49
On first appearances this bar looks like a refined, almost colonial tea room, but it is also a restaurant and travel book shop. The staff are perfectly happy to let clients head to the back room and browse with their coffee, without buying any books.

MUSIC
SOUNDS JAZZ CLUB
RUE DE LA TULIPE/TULPSTRAAT 28
TEL. 02 512 9250
This intimate bar off Place Fernand-Coq boasts live jazz every night except Sunday. When they settled in Brussels in 1986, founder-owners Sergio and Rosy quickly found their bar one of the most sought-after venues for mainstream and modern jazz. It’s closed on Sundays.

VALUE
HÔTEL LA LEGENDE
RUE DU LOMBARD/LOMBARDSTRAAT 35
TEL. 02 512 82 90
There are no frills here, but it’s clean, comfortable and well located. La Légende is a favourite for business and pleasure travellers. The internet, parking and laundry are available for a fee, which helps keep the room price reasonable.

BUSINESS
SOFITEL LE LOUISE
AVENUE DE LA TOISON D’OR/GULDEN-VLIESLAAN 40
TEL. 02 514 22 00
This refurbished four-star hotel is within 15 minutes’ walk of the old city centre. Full conference facilities are available, as well as a fitness centre and bar/brasserie.

BESPOKE
STANHOPE HOTEL
RUE DU COMMERCE/HANDELSSTRAAT 9
TEL. 02 506 91 11
The Stanhope claimed to be the first five-star hotel in Belgium in 1991, and its English country grandeur has not faded. Service is deferential and rooms decorated in antique or contemporary style. It has a bar, restaurant and garden.

Two free magazines have information on theatre listings, exhibitions, concerts and more. Zone02 (www.zone02.be) comes in French and Flemish versions, and Agenda (www.agenda.be) has a multilingual format (including some English).

Most things are for sale or barter in the flea markets, antique and furniture stores which line the Rue Haute and the Rue Blaes, south of the city centre. Haggling is possible in the less formal shops and is de rigueur at the flea market at Place du Jeu de Balle/Vossenplein.

Try Beer Mania (www.beermania.be ) for a guided tour of Belgium’s 700 brews. The staff speak good English, and will provide advice. Prices are fair, and the range is exceptional. They even stock the elusive Westvleteren.

The royal greenhouses (www.monarchie.be) in Laeken are one of the few royal properties open to the public, and are only accessible a few weeks every year. Built in 1873 and still some of the largest greenhouses in the world, they are open from late April to mid May.